Cut Your Teeth Crag

Overview

Cut Your Teeth Crag is just before the saddle connecting Calico Basin and the section of the Calico Hills accessed from the First and Second Pullouts. From the base, there are nice views through the saddle to the big sandstone peaks, and there are even better views from the climbs themselves.

With four sport routes, two trad routes, and four or five toprope routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.8, this crag is beginner-friendly and is just a nice place to spend several hours. Because it gets a lot of sun, it is a good winter spot.

My partner and I climbed All That Jazz at Black Wall, did the walkoff to the saddle, climbed all the lead routes at the main CYT Crag, and found this kept us busy for much of the day, and it was a great one at that. I highly recommend something like that as opposed to dealing with the crowds and the lines at some of the better-known spots in Calico Basin.

Getting There

Park at Red Springs and hike from there, or park legally along the road a little farther in and hike a trail starting there. The latter is shorter and more direct. Expect an approach of 20-30 minutes for most parties. The crag is on the right and almost at the saddle. The picture below is of the crag from the trail.

Routes

I have climbed the sport routes and the trad route on the main formations but none of the toprope routes. Although I have seen the anchors for some of the TR routes, what little I know about them comes mostly from the Mountain Project page.

A gully splits the crag into two distinct sections.

• Unknown TR-- While rappelling November Daze, I spotted anchors in an alcove to the left. This route is not on MP, and I have no idea about the grade or the quality.
• November Daze, 5.7-- Sport. About 100'. Very fun.
• September Knights, 5.8-- Sport. About 85'. Fun with a few distinct cruxy spots. This and November Daze are much better than the other two sport routes here, in my opinion.
• Interproximal Stripper, 5.7-- Sport. About 60'. My partner and I both thought this was harder than September Knights. Often, the best climbing is a good bit off the bolt line, making for some awkward clips.
• Laughing Gas, 5.7-- TR
• Braces and Bridges, 5.8-- TR. I believe this climbs the crack and chimney in the middle of the right-hand crag.
• Toothache, 5.6-- TR
• Impacted Molar, 5.6-- Sport. About 40'.
• Baby Teeth, 5.5-- Trad. About 35'. This starts where Impacted Molar does but follows the diagonal crack. Reach a ledge with anchors. You can continue to the top of the formation, but there are no anchors for it up there. Because my partner was not going to climb the route, I did not assess options for a gear anchor and the walk-off possibilities. So instead, I had to downclimb back to the anchors on the ledge.
• Head Gear, 5.8 PG 13-- Trad and TR. About 80'. This is not on the two main formations. Instead, locate the anchor bolts atop the flat slab directly behind Interproximal Stripper. There are three bolts.

There are bolted anchors, but you need your own gear for toproping. Some of the TR anchors are set back enough that just using quickdraws would cause drag, rock wear, and possibly rope damage.

Red Tape

If it has rained recently, the rock may be too wet to climb without breaking holds and endangering yourself and ruining the climbs for others. Exactly how long to wait can be a subject of hot debate, but even the most permissive suggestions are for at least 24 hours. A general rule is that if there is standing water or the ground is damp, you shouldn't climb.

When to Climb

Spring, fall, winter. In summer, go very early.

Camping

None in Calico Basin. The BLM Red Rock Canyon is close by. It's not open all year and has a reservation system when it is open.