Panty Wall, 5.5-5.13b

Overview/Approach

During the winter months of December-February, there can be days where Calico Hills will be quite inviting compared to its larger brethren to the southwest. Panty Wall is one of the more popular destinations at Calico Hills for two reasons: First, the wall is completely south facing and second, it highlights the largest collection of easy sport climbing pitches of any wall at Red Rocks. The only time those of us from St. George are forced into sport climbing at Red Rocks is when we get surprised by too much snow and ice in the large canyons leading to the spectacular trad routes in the west end of the park. On one such day, we were forced to retreat back to Calico Hills. That is when I finally visited the quite popular Panty Wall.

Let there be no question about it, Panty Wall is the most popular spot in all of Red Rocks. If you are sport climbing on a weekend, I highly advise you explore other options if you seek peace and quiet. In our circumstance, the weather was so suspect and cold, we took the gamble so we could climb what several claim is one of the better 5.10 trad routes at Calico, Panty Raid. Even with the questionable weather, we were besieged with several van loads of young Canadians chattering up a storm as they top roped the 5.7-5.8 collection of sport routes to the right of Panty Raid. So we did Panty Raid and moved on.

I recommend Stone Wall and Stratocaster Wall if you are looking for moderate routes in a more pristine setting at Calico Hills. That being said, there are not that many trad pitches at Calico Hills. It is mostly a sport climbing mecca. Therefore, Panty Raid was worth hunting down. It was a worthwhile pitch put in by Paul Van Betten and Neck Nordblom on an interesting varnished crack running up the middle of the wall.

From the parking area for the 1st pullout, descend the main trail taking a left at the Grand Circle Trail. Follow the trail as it rises, then falls again, crossing the wash up onto a dirt ridge on the other side. Continue west about 200 yards, before taking a U turn back east, ascending slick rock to the base of Panty Wall. There use to be a large pine tree at the base of the wall, but it fell during 2008. The wall gets good winter sun from mid morning on.

Route Description(s)

The Routes are Listed Left to Right as you Face the Walls

Left Wall

• Panty Shield- 50’- 5.10d/


• Panty Mime- 40’- 5.10d/


• Panty Prow- 60’- 5.6/


• The Great Red Rook- 50’- 5.13b/


Main Wall

• Totally Clips- 40’- 5.11a/


• Wedgie- 65’- 5.12b/


• Viagra Falls- 60’- 5.11d/
(photo)

• Edible Panties- 70’- 5.10b/


• Panty Raid- 70’- 5.10a/
Panty Raid is alright, was not impressed with the pro. Have to edge your nuts out front on lips of varnish that I don't trust 100%. Not all warm and fuzzy. The moves were fun though. Single from .3 to 2”, double .5-1” and full set of nuts. (photo)

• Panty Line- 70’- 5.10a/


• Brief Encounter- 65’- 5.8/


• Sacred Undergarment Squeeze Job- 60’- 5.8/


• Boxer Rebellion- 50’- 5.7/


• The Last Panty- 45’- 5.7/


• Silk Panties- 40’- 5.7/


Right Wall

• Cover My Buttress- 40’- 5.6/


• Thong- 30’- 5.7/

Essential Gear

Tons of routes here, some trad, some sport, you definitely need to plan your day from the parking area. At least one 60m rope and a dozen draws. For climbing at Calico Hills, you should definitely grab Jerry Handren’s book, “Red Rocks, A Climber’s Guide”. Very well done guide book.


External Links

• Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, BLM


• Red Rock Canyon Interpretive Association


• DowClimbing.Com
Red Rocks




Images

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