Crackathon, 5.6-5.10

Overview/Approach

Crackathon is the lower south facing wall of Warpath Dome.  The published routes to date (2021) are west to east:  Fax Crack, 5.9***, Driven by Fear, 5.8*, Hard Drive, 5.10-, Unknown RFC, 5.6 and Bits and Bights (sp), 5.9.  Although the climbing at Crackathon does not deserve to be a destination, adding a few of these single pitch excursions to a romp on the Warpath Route, 5.9PG***, makes sense.  The walk off descent from that route passes right under the Crackathon area.  By far the choice route of the group is Fax Crack, a true 130’ tall climb necessitating two single rope raps to descend (short of a single 80m rope).  Fax Crack offers up an excellent finger crack at the grade for half of its length.

Drive from Sheepshead heading for the Whale Dome sector of Cochise.  Look for the formation of Warpath Dome, west face, on the ridge line to the east (photo).  Park at a 2-3 car pullout on the east side of the road.  Pick up a faint (2021) and relatively new climber’s trail heading east along the fence.  Follow it into the wash and up the main gully to the southwest shoulder of Warpath.  Continue on the trail as it heads up to the south face which involves many buttresses.  Fax Crack is located on the obvious formation also showing off a hand crack to the right of the finger crack, a variation to the route.  Driven by Fear is two more cracks to the right of this formation.    

Route Descriptions, Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face this South Facing Wall

Fax Crack- 125’-5.9/ A solid pitch of climbing to add to Warpath if you did the walk off to that route as you walk right underneath the Crackathon area on return to your packs.  Fax Crack is by far the best-looking established route on Crackathon as of 2021.  Climb the chimney start at the left side of the pillar with a finger crack up and left and hand crack up and right.  Stem to the right out of the chimney and make a few steep moves at the grade protecting in a horizontal.  Clip the first bolt and continue up positive holds to a bolt near the base of the finger crack.  Start climbing the good finger crack with plenty of feet, thus the grade.  Fixed cold shuts on top, but unless you have an 80m rope, you will not be able to TR it.  Rap to the top of Driven by Fear.  Then a 2^nd rap to the ground.  Or if felling spunky, rap with a single 70m rope straight down to a small tree and climb down that.  Offsets and/or nuts are helpful, double to triple finger sizes down to micro size.  Sustained at the grade.  Dow

Driven by Fear- 5.8*/

Unknown RFC- 5.6/

Hard Drive- 5.10-/

Bits and Bights (sp)- 5.9/