Worm-Stronghold Dome Connector, 5.5-5.10

Overview/Approach

Between Worm and the Stronghold domes is a “Connector” wall for lack of a better term.  High above this connector is Beanfest Dome.  Beanfest Dome’s routes are best reached by summiting the Stronghold Dome and scrambling down to the col to the west whereas the Connector routes are easily reached by continuing up the drainage below the south face of Stronghold.  The seven established routes on this connector as of 2024 are not published in the local guide.  They do however make a great addition to either Worm or Stronghold Dome.  

Until published officially, I have named the routes #1 through #7, left to right when standing below this south face.  Several offer fun moderate roof pulls, #2 through #5, with #5 being my favorite route on this wall.  Several are fully bolted but most are a mix of bolts and gear with a small rack needed to climb any of them.  In the winter this wall receives full sun until late afternoon. 

Approach as you would for the Stronghold Dome but continue up the gully below its south face.  You will pass quite a few bolted lines on the “connector” rock between the two domes.  Look to access the fully bolted #6 and #7 at the very eastern edge of the connector by accessing a short gully directly below the east side.  Once on the wall at the east end, there are many fixed raps and you can use to catch a broad ledge system in the middle of the dome vs rapping all the way back to the ground.  Just keep moving left competing all routes easily on a short winter day for the competent team.

Routes Listed Left to Right on the South Face

#1- Bolted line-5th/ Sort of on an easy gully arete filled with trees and bushes.

#2- 90’-5.8*/ Worthy climb.  Follow left leaning twin cracks with a piece or two of gear to bolts.  Fun and sustained movement at the grade with a fun small roof pull to fixed anchor. Dow

#3- 90-5.8+**/ Shares the same start as #4 but follows the easier left variation. You place some small gear in a bomber finger crack start.  Clip bolts as they ascend the arete on slab at the grade.  Take the easier roof pull to the left and then back right following bolts on slab to the shared fixed rap anchor.  Dow

#4- 90-5.9**/ Shares the same start as #3 but follows the right variation with the more dramatic roof pull. You place some small gear in a bomber finger crack start.  Clip bolts as they ascend the arete on slab at the grade, followed by a fun bolted chicken head roof pull up to an easy slab finish to a fixed rap. Dow

#5- 100’-5.10-***/ This is the best route on the wall.  Climb the relatively easy right facing corner.  Move right and start clipping bolts as you pull the roof by snaking up and left.  Facing east helps for the first half, flipping back to the slab behind your back makes it easier to finish this crux section.  Easy slab up to a fixed rap anchor.  Dow

#6- 70’- 5.7/ One of two fully bolted lines at the east end of the wall.  Both located directly above a flat platform with a tree.  Nothing remarkable about this one.  Bolts to fixed rap anchor. Dow

#7- 60’- 5.9/ The crux of the route is a 5.9 slab move left near the end.  The fully bolted route right next to #6 that has its own rap anchor as well.  Dow