Muttonhead, 5.8-5.12-

Overview/Approach

Muttonhead has two aliases. The more common is "middle sister" as it is situated between Sheepshead and Hootgoat. Supposedly Scott Ayers gave it the name "Sheepshit" originally but it did not stick. I suppose one could rationalize the name Muttonhead in that this peak appears headless when compared to Sheepshead. Mutton is the proper name used for the carcass and/or meal portion of a sheep being prepared for food. It is actually a much taller peak than it appears on approach as Sheepshead is broader and in the foreground. Like Sheepshead, Muttonhead mostly just sports one decent climbing face, its west side.

Mystery of the Desert (5.9) is by far the most common route on the west face and offers six pitches to the summit. I consider it as solid a trad route as any on Sheepshead. Another notable route is Tourist Buses Welcome (5.10), my favorite fully bolted route in the Stronghold, just to the right of Mystery.

From the parking area for Sheepshead, follow the established climbers trail past Absinthe of Mallet and continue past the base of the west face of Sheepshead for the west face of Muttonhead. A well-established trail crosses the shared gully. Continue to the north corner of the west face. A large left facing corner is followed by a much smaller one. The smaller one is the start of Mystery of the Desert. A bolt line follows up the face on the right side of the crack (Tourist Buses Welcome).

Route Description(s)

The Routes are Listed Left to Right as you Face the West Wall and it turns up the standard descent gully

• Piece Prize- 2 Pitches- 5.10R*/

• The Inevitable Awaits You- 3 Pitches- 5.11-***/

• Mystery of the Desert- 6 Pitches- 5.9***/ This first pitch is not the obvious left facing corner. Rather it follows the next corner/crack to the left. The second pitch is much more challenging with a fun roof pull via a solid hand jam and finishes off through what they call the “wedge” for the more comfortable belay. The fourth through fifth pitches (broken down into three pitches on RC.com) involve the most sustained climbing of the original route. What looks like a simple hand crack, shallows out and turns into a layback reach for the dike traverse above. After traversing left, a few thoughtful slab moves above lead to the top of the wall. Another pitch has been added to the summit of Muttonhead. It is directly behind where you top out and is considerably harder than any of the climbing below. It is a mix of bolts and gear following an arching steep crack. There is a fixed rappel on top to return to the summit gully and thus walkoff below. Dow
  
  
• Tourist Buses Welcome- 3 Pitches- 5.10**/ My favorite fully bolted 5.10 route in the Stronghold.  I prefer trad thus always end up climbing the sport routes last as I climb an area out.  This is one of those gems you find in the process.  The first pitch is an easy warm up (5.9) to two outstanding pitches above.  The second pitch takes 11 clips traversing right through a roof on multiple dikes and then stemming back left up a shallow corner.  Edge and slab climbing aplenty with a few finger crack holds along the way.  The last pitch stems up through an inverted section via cool stemming and intricate slab.  Excellent movement, excellent rock and well bolted from bottom to top. Dow

• Seeing is Believing- 2 Pitches- 5.10R*/ The first pitch is well protected via intermittent seams located between two bolted climbs at the north end of Muttonhead, Tour Buses Welcome on the left and Have You Seen It on the right, both of which are decent climbs in their own right.   The second pitch of Seeing is Believing to the finish on Full Metal Hootgoat would be a classic if someone replaced the bolts on it and it received traffic to clean up the kitty litter. The first half of the 2^nd pitch belongs to Seeing is Believing and offers great exposed climbing at the grade, and the 2^nd half belongs to Full Metal Hootgoat which has bad bolts as of 2024.  For a third pitch you can finish on the modern bolted Have You Seen It but Full Metal Hootgoat is bolted up the arete to the left, the hardware just needs replacing. Dow

• Have You Seen It- 2 Pitches- 5.10**/ This is a natural route to combine with Tour Buses Welcome for 5 pitches of solid 5.10 bolted climbing.  The first pitch is published as 5.10- but is borderline 5.9.  It is a long-sustained pitch but I never really felt a crux move at the grade.  It does offer fun movement over many dikes and positive steep features in general.  The second pitch is typical Cochise intricate slab.  Not too crunchy until the end. Dow

• Fulll Metal Hootgoat- 3 Pitches- 5.11-R/

• Wandering Weaselead- 3 Pitches- 5.10/

• No More Credit from the Liquor Store- 3 Pitches- 5.10+**/ The guide calls for gear, but we felt this was a true sport route by Cochise standards.  The first pitch is easy to locate due to a short left facing corner right off the ground.  It is located at the south end of the west face of Muttonhead.  The 2^nd pitch offers the crux over a shallow arch.  The 3^rd pitch surprised with additional fun moves to a fixed rap anchor where you can rap the route with a single 60m rope. Dow

• Chaktar Battles the Hootgoat- 3 Pitches- 5.8/

• Clash of the Hootgoats- 2 Pitches- 5.8+/

• I'm Your Huckleberry- 4 Pitches- 5.11-**/  I’m Your Huckleberry is a stout route at the grade by Cochise standards.  The first pitch has a true height dependent crux (6’) and is pumpy from the ground up as most of it is a traverse.  The second pitch has a PG13 sequence off a ledge to the first bolt.  Committing move followed by committing move on this short, but stout pitch at its grade. Committing to holds is the mental crux of this route.  The third pitch is sustained and steep at its grade. The fourth pitch offers several slab/face moves at its grade.  Inch by inch a sustained route by Cochise standards. Dow

• In Vino Veritas- 3 Pitches- 5.11-**/

• Oops I Sharted- 3 Pitches- 5.11+*/

• Tiny But Exciting- 5.12-**/

• In Water There is Life- 5.11-**/