From Pitz Valley glacier ski resort

Approach

The use of the Pitz subway allows to reach the summit of the Wildspitze in one day. Best is to do this climb in winter or spring with skis : the Mittelberg Joch can be reached with a ski lift and the summit is only 2,5 hours distant. A little more, you can get back with skis over the Taschachferner (glacier) to Mittelberg. This descent with skis is magnificent and avoids the go back up to the Mittelberg Joch on the return.
If the Mittelberg ski lift is closed (october), you must climb the monotonous Mittelberg Glacier (2 h more). If you are a good skier, better is to use the cable car of Hinterer Brunnenkogel and ski down the first couloir you find in eastern direction under the summit. This couloir is steep and often icy but it is a good shortcut to Mittelberg Joch.

Route Description

From the Mittelberg Joch (3166 m), go down in a southerly direction across the short block-covered slope to the eastern edge of the Taschachferner (glacier). These blocks are sometimes snow-free. Proceed in western direction without height gain, pass under an icefall. Continue in the same direction in order to conturn the big crevasses on your left. The snow bridge is usually large and evident. From here turn to the left in south-eastern direction, pass under the Hinterer Brochkogel, cross the firn field beneath the Mitterkarjoch. Here the slope becames steeper. When you have reached the basis of the summit, turn to the right and reach the collar. From here the last hundred meters must be done by foot, first over (often) icy snow (campons !), then over easy rocks.

Essential Gear

Rope, crampons, telescopic sticks.

Images

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