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1372 Hits
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77.48% Score
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8 Votes
Page Type:
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Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon:
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38.85831°N / 110.47088°W |
Activities:
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Hiking, Trad Climbing, Scrambling |
Season:
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Spring, Fall, Winter |
Elevation:
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4671 ft / 1424 m |
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Overview
Three Finger Canyon has a lot going for it: high scenic value on its own, nice ancient petroglyphs, short approaches once you've negotiated the gnarly road in, and a few dozen climbs ranging from 5.4 to 5.11+ with both single- and multi-pitch options from which you can choose.
This canyon is home to what might be the most popular route on the Reef: 1000' of Fun. It's 5 pitches and goes at 5.6. Normally, people rappel the route, but you can continue on from the P5 anchors to connect with the last pitch of 1200' of Fun, from which you can enjoy a walkoff as opposed to rappeling and pulling ropes over 5 pitches of mostly low-angle slab with lots of flakes hungry for ropes.
Getting There
There are 2 main ways to access the crags.
The first is from I-70. Two miles west of the exit for UT 24, turn off onto a dirt road to the right. This road leads into Black Dragon Wash, where the well-known Black Dragon pictograph panel is. Open the wire gate, reclose it after driving through, and head for an underpass. Once through it, you'll be on a dirt road that parallels the reef for about 6 miles before bending east.
Before entering the underpass, check to see if it's flooded. If it is, there is another turnoff and gate on eastbound I-70. You can get to it by crossing the highway on a service road, which technically is illegal, or by driving for quite a ways to the first exit (I believe it is 131) that allows reentry to 70 in the other direction. Of course, if you're coming from the west, this turnoff is the one you want in the first place.
The second approach is from UT 24 via a turnoff about 7 miles south of I-70 and just past MP 153. This road is said to be usually in better condition than the one from I-70, and it connects to the road that parallels the Reef.
Note: the road paralleling the Reef receives regular maintenance but does change according to conditions. I've been on it when I could have driven a regular passenger car with little trouble, and I've been on it when there have been washouts making me thankful I was in a Jeep.
6.1 miles south of I-70 on the dirt road paralleling the Reef, there is a turnoff. This is the access to Three Finger Canyon. From 24, the turnoff is supposed to be 4 miles.
Getting to the end of the access road, which is about 2 miles, requires high clearance and possibly 4WD. Go as far as you feel comfortable with the vehicle you have. During my 3 visits here so far, all of them with rentals, I managed to get within a couple tenths of a mile with a minivan and all the way with a Tacoma and a Wrangler. I was only able to get so far with the minivan because I have a lot of off-road-driving experience; don't even think of trying to get a minivan or passenger car that far if you don't.
Routes
The nicest thing about the approach is that once you're at road's end, most of the climbs are literally just a few minutes away. You also get to pass some nice petroglyphs that unfortunately have suffered some vandalism, though they're for the most part unspoiled.
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Red Tape
Not much at all; just comply with posted regulations so we don't ruin historical relics and jeopardize access.
When to Climb
Fall through spring; most routes are east-facing and would bake in the summer and not leave you time to climb them once the shade came on.
Camping
Dispersed
1 Routes