Prostredny Hrot

Intro

Prostredny Hrot or Stredohrot, Posrednia Gran, Mittelgrat, Kozeporom, Middle Ridge 2441 Imposing rocky pyramide in a lateral ridge separating great High Tatra valleys of Velka and Mala Studena One of the most honourable, beatiful, prominent and at the same time one of the hardest to climb of High Tatra peaks . What characterizes the massif is its unusually complicated structure even for Tatra conditions . It is really an ocean of haughty crags, with huge vertical spaces of pure granite rock, walls offering absolutely wonderful climbing possibilities, couloirs and gutters of every level of difficulty and so on ... The name of the peak comes from the fact that the peak lies between two branches of one huge valley system, in the very "middle" (prostredny = middle) . Viewing from practically all directions Prostredny Hrot presents itself equally impressive, just all of its faces are so beatiful that it is simply too subjective to rate which one is the most impressive ! No marked routes in the whole massif makes the area a real wilderness and sanctuary of mountain nature . First ascent : 11.VIII.1876 - Paul Schwartz, Odon Tery and guides Samuel Horvay and Johann Still First winter ascent : 2.IV.1904 - Karoly Jordan, J.Lackner, Jozsef Szelke and guides Johann Breuer and Paul Spitzkopf senior

Prostredny Hrot (2441)

Prostredny Hrot above Velka Studena Valley Prostredny Hrot - one of the most beatifully shaped among High Tatra peaks rises proudly between Mala Studena
and Velka Studena valleys as the highest culmination in a long, lateral, SE ridge outgoing in nearby Siroka Veza from the main Tatra chain. The peak has got two prominent summits :

NW - Maly Prostredny Hrot

SE - the main one - Prostredny Hrot(2441) Sedlo za Prostrednym Pass separates the peak from Zlta Veza(2385)peak while Sedlo pred Prostrednym pass separates it from the crag of Chmurna Veza(2255). In Prostredny Hrot's NE slopes, there rises a separate and prominent crag of Zlta Stena(2169) famous mainly from its 180 m high vertical cliff falling down to the bottom of Mala Studena Valley nearby Teryho Chalet's building which partly explains its unabated popularity among climbers over the years. The long ridge expanding from Prostredny Hrot's main summit towards south-east between Mala and Velka Studena valleys is so called Prostredny Hreben full of haughty crags to mention the most remarkable ones : Chmurna Veza, Velky Kostol, Maly Kostol and Ostepy. The height of Prostredny Hrot faces varies from 300 metres (SE face around Komarnickis' Pillar) up to 750 metres (S face above Velka Studena Valley. Each of them offers wide choice of climbing routes of different technical difficulties.

Getting There

The whole “Prostredny Hrot climbing project” usually starts from Stary Smokovec beautiful spa, ski and mountain tourism centre on Slovak side of Tatra Mountains(since November 2004 the landscape around chenged totally due to disastrous wind that demolished Slovak Tatra forests). Stary Smokovec You can get there easily by bus or electric train from town of Poprad. Poprad Poprad has very good communication links with whole Slovakia (many bus links to Polish border at Lysa Polana so it is easy to get to Slovak side of Tatra Mountains coming from Polish side especially in summer season), there is also an airport (probably the highest situated one in Europe - 710 meters above the sea level). Poprad-Tatry Airport Slovak bus and train connection search The first step of our mountain trip to Prostredny Hrot leads from Stary Smokovec to Hrebienok(1285) and then higher and higher through Velka Studena valley or its twin sister Mala Studena valley. There is a cable railway from the center of Stary Smokovec to Hrebienok(5,70 Euro - one way ).

Routes Overview

No marked routes in Prostredny Hrot massif Marked routes in the area of Velka and Mala Studena valleys : Stary Smokovec(1010) – Hrebienok(1285) Green marks or road ,3 km ,0.50 h Tatranska Lomnica(850) – Rainerova Hut (crossing of marked router to Velka and Mala Studena Valleys) Blue Marks ,6 km ,2 h Tatranska Lesna(915) – Rainerova Hut Yellow Marks ,4.5 km ,1.30 h Hrebienok(1285) – Bilikova Chata(1255) - Vodopady Studeneho Potoka (Cold Water Waterfalls) – Rainerova Hut Green marks ,1.3 km ,0.20 h Hrebienok(1285) – 0.50 h - Zamkovskeho Chata(1475) – Mala Studena Dolina – 1.25 h – Teryho Chata(2015) . Red (to Rainerova Hut) and then Green Marks ,6.5 km ,2.30 h Teryho Chata(2015) – Modre Pleso(2157) – Sedielko Pass(2372) Green marks ,2 km, 1.30 h ---------- Teryho Chata(2015) –> Priecne Sedlo Pass(2352) –> Velka Studena Valley one way route! Yellow Marks ,5.5 km ,2.30 h One way rocky path linking Mala Studena and Velka Studena Valleys. ---------- Hrebienok – Velka Studena Valley – Zbojnicka Chata Chalet(1960) Blue marks ,6 km ,680 meters of altitude difference ,2 h Zbojnicka Chata Chalet – Prielom Pass(2288) Blue Marks ,2.2 km ,330 m of AD ,1 1/4 h Climbing Routes: Zlta Stena climbing routes TOPO Mala Zlta Stena TOPO

Maly Hrot - West face

Prostredny Hrot area - Map

Tatry Wysokie (High Tatra) map, in scale 1:25 000, description in 6 languages, ISBN 83-87873-26-8, available in all shops and book stores in Zakopane . Here you can check the net version Tatra Maps (English version)

Red Tape

It is Tatra National Park(TANAP) area, there are no entry fees but you can hike using only marked trails. Many prominent non-marked peaks are accessible "legally" only with licensed Tatra guide service. Tatra Guides Watch out for strict rules of wildlife conservation. Stay always respectful to mountain nature! From 1.11 to 15.06 year by year all marked routes in TANAP(the whole Slovak side of Tatras) are being closed for tourist activity(besides the routes leading to mountain chalets).

When To Climb

Best time for climbing/hiking: August – October. June/July: frequent t-storms ,heavy rainfall periods and foggy weather. Planning visiting Tatra Mountains in winter, don't forget to check actual HZS avalanche forecast

Camping

Huge accomodation possibilites on Slovak side all year round. One has an endless choice of places to sleep from luxury hotels to guest houses and private rooms. In the mountains: Hrebienok Hotel Hrebienok Bilkova Chata Hotel Velka Studena Valley: Zbojnicka Chata Chalet Mala Studena Valley: Zamkovskeho Chata Chalet Teryho Chata Chalet Camping in Tatra National Park is strictly forbidden!

Mountain Conditions

Severe and extremely changeable High Tatra mountain climate …be always prepared for sudden weather breakdowns! Stay always respectful to the mountains! Horska Sluzba - Tatra Mountain Rescue - daily weather ,avalanche reports Rescue Phone Number: 18 300 Slovak mountains, weather reports, camera

External Links

• Slovak mountains
  good info page

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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KRZYS - Aug 13, 2009 4:34 pm - Hasn't voted

UIAA members too

Hej Tomku! Bardzo ciekawa strona. Mam tylko sugestie co do jednego fragmentu: "Many prominent non-marked peaks are accessible "legally" only with licensed Tatra guide service." Mysle ze przydaloby sie dopisac jeszcze, ze czlonkowie nalezacy do klubów UIAA takze moga sie wspinac legalnie bez przewodnikow (oczywiscie na drogi w trudnosci od III), bo to moze byc troche omylne, zwlaszcza jak ktos bedzie w naszych pieknych Tatrach pierwszy raz. Pozdrawiam

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Images

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