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9973 Hits
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81.18% Score
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13 Votes
Page Type:
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Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.16890°N / 10.90030°E |
Activities:
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Trad Climbing |
Season:
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Summer |
Elevation:
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9681 ft / 2951 m |
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Overview
 Cima degli Armi is the central one | Starting from Rifugio Alimonta for the "Bocchette Centrali" ferrata, while crossing the gletscher to reach the starting point of the fixed ladders, you must pass under a mighty rock structure: a big tower flanked by two big buttresses impending at your left. This is the Cima degli Armi, a summit almost forgotten by climbers but able to give a very fine amusing awakening to skilled hikers (rope useful) just before starting the ferrata ...or (better) if you come from Pedrotti, to close the day trip. From this summit you can see the Sfulmini chain (on whose east side the ferrata runs) from a different and unique perspective. |
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Getting There
for W side climbs the best starting point is Rifugio Alimontayou can get it starting from Madonna di Campiglio (1515 m)
by car or taxi-service to Rifugio Valsinella (1513 m).
on foot : path 317 - to Rif. Casinei, path 318, 2 h walk to Brentei
then 1 more hour to reach the Alimonta Hut
for E side climb the best starting point is the Rifugio Pedrotti using the "Bocchette Centrali" as approach
Routes overview
on the side you can see from Rifugio Alimonta these routes :a fine and not difficult normal route - PD inf - safe and easy to find both going on and coming down - along the west slope of the right buttress (SW) and, through a narrow and exposed ledge to a chimney giving to final scramble.
SSW wall - Detassis - 220 m - TD (5°)
W wall - Agostini - 200 m - TD (5°)
W dihedral - Maffei - 250 m - TD (5°)
NW side the easiest (1°) but with some stone fall danger
N ridge - 2° - from Bocchetta Molveno - not fine
on the opposite sides, long to be reached, some fine routes :
NNE wall - Castiglioni - 400 m - PD sup
NE edge - via dei Tedeschi - 400 m - TD (5°-6°)
E wall - Hahn - PD - fine and amusing
S wall - Kiene - AD - the finest, but to be done only late in season to avoid ice and wet rock in the chimney
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When To Climb
july - septemberout of season not recommended - refuges are closed and the site is quite unhospital at night
Camping
Sant' Antonio di Mavignolaif you use a tent near the Brentei hut (a lot of wonderful meadows there) you'll get no problems at all :)