Latok Peak

Overview

Latok group of Peaks are Latok I is 7145m, Latok II is 7108m Its west face first ascent made by Toni Gutsch, Alex and Thomas Huber in 1997 (a recent Italian expedition surveyed the Latok peaks and measured Latok II higher than Latok I), Latok III 6940m, Latok IV 6456m, Latok IV SE Ca6450m. The other peaks close by are Choktoi 6166m, Baintha Brakk SE 6960m, 7285m middle, Orge Thumb / Lukphila Brakk 5500m, Spaldang 5590m, Biacherahi Towers 5900m.

Big Wall is the nature phenomenon, a precipice which has a steep more than 70 degree and the length more then kilometer. There are 20 Big Wall in the World and Latok is one among them.

Latok peaks are mixture of ice and rock climbing. Not all of Latok Peaks faces are climb, there is plenty of opportunity for adventure lovers to come and make their first ascent. In 1999 the Huber brothers from Germany made the second ascent on Latok IV south 6450m in one day they also climb Latok II.

Among woman Calhoun prefers to climb in a party of just two, but sometimes goes with two parties of two. With this minimalist approach, she has attempted the North Ridge of 23,400-foot Latok I in 1993 and the West Face of 22,800-foot Latok III in 1998. Along with Julie Brugger, Andy DeKlerk, and Colin Grissom, she made it approximately one-third of the way up Latok. On Latok III Calhoun, her now- husband Jay Smith, Steve Quinlan, and Ken Sauls attempted a highly technical new big-wall route. They were forced to abandon their attempt at over 19,000 feet after running out of food.

Russian Big Walls Project also attempted Latok III in 2000 but fail to make summit.

Biacherahi Towers

BIACHERAHI TOWERS - 5900m Expedition

Biacherahi Towers a group of rock towers stand close to Latok group. A1000 m or more wall and gigantic block of granite has got altitude, snow and ice make an ideal Tower for adventure lover. The approach to the south ridge is not so easy with frightening crevasses and a steep couloirs where one can led to a point and can start climbing. In the first half aid over A2 is needed. Knife blades and PR are expected to apply often. A 5.10 grade with utmost care for unstable rocks and stones, it is also needed to fixed rope on the ice slopes. The base camp is about 4500m. From the base camp to your left is North Face of Latok; in front are Ogre II and to the right Biacherahi Towers.

Mr.Yamanoi and Kurtyka made the first ascent on August 14, 2001 (August 14 is also the Pakistan Independence Day) on Central Peak of Biacherahi Towers. There are many unclimbed routes and unclimbed Biacherahi Towers waiting for fun lover. One can spare about three weeks for climbing. If you do it earlier it will be a bonus for you to try your luck on other towers.

Biacherahi Tower is in a open zone and below 6000m, you did not need to pay government for peak permit, it is three to four days walk from road ahead.

But please remember most important thing in an expedition is logistics. Please come in an organize way, and hire local support. Concentrate your time and efforts on climbing this beautiful mountain.

A three or four day walk will bring you from Askole Village to 4500m base camp for group of peak mentioned above.

From Islamabad a 24 hours drive will bring you to the gateway of Karakoram Mountain Skardu Valley. After making final arrangement another 6-7 hours jeep drive and 3-4 days walk will bring you to the base of Biacherahi.

21 days for climbing from Base Camp and rest of the days for Islamabad to base camp and back to Islamabad. No peak permit is requiring, even no trekking permit is require as the peak stand in open zone. Just inform us pack your stuff and get ready for life time experience.

ITINERARY
35 DAYS

Note :- Although we try to adhere to the schedule listed below, this itinerary is subject to change due to numerous reasons beyond our control such as bad weather, cancelled or delayed flights, road washouts, vehicle breakdowns, accidents, sickness, government restrictions, & all other unforeseen exigencies.

Day 1 Arrival in Pakistan (Islamabad)
Upon arrival met and transfer to your hotel in Rawalpindi.

Day 2 Islamabad - Skardu/fly
An early morning flight to Skardu. If flight does not operate due to bad weather same day we will drive by road to Skardu spending a night in between.
Flight time 1 hours Altitude 2300m

Day 3 Skardu
If flight is not possible on day three this day will be use to travel by road. Upon arrival transfer to your hotel.

Day 4 Skardu/leisure
Free day at Skardu for sightseeing and exploration. Staff will make final arrangement.

Day 5 Skardu - Askole
Early in the morning board in the jeeps and drive to Askole Following the Braldo river. Seven to eight hours drive will bring you to Askole Village. Pitch you tents for overnight.

Staff will distribute the loads into 25kg for the porters and mark the tag numbers for each load. This load will be handover to porters in the morning, when the trek start.
Overnight camping Drive time 7-8 hours

Day 6 Askole - Korophong
After an early breakfast, start your first day of trek with dozen of porters to Korophong, snout of Biafo Glacier. Overnight camping. Trek 4-5 hours

Day 7 Korophong - ?
Trek to Jhulla upper point.

Day 8 Base Camp
A short trek will bring you to the base of Biacherahi Tower. Overnight camping. Trek 3-4 hours

Day 9 to 28 Climbing Biacherahi Tower
We have about three week to climb Biacherahi Tower. Your camping staff will be always at your service at base camp. As this is very must technical climb, so you will be on your own for entire three week of climb.

Day 29 to 30 Base camp - Skardu
Two days will bring us back in Skardu. Overnight tents and hotel.

Day 31 Skardu/leisure
Free day in Skardu to rest and explore the Skardu town.

Day 32 Skardu - Islamabad/fly
We will again try to fly from Skardu (depending on the weather) If flight does not operate drive to Besham. Overnight hotel.

Day 33 Islamabad
In six hours we will be in Islamabad. Upon arrival transfer to your hotel.

Day 34 Islamabad free day
Sightseeing or day at leisure.

Day 35 Flight back home
Transfer to airport for your flight back home.

End of our services.

Getting There

A three days walk from Askole Village will bring you to the base of Latok and Orge Peaks. The Base camp at 4200m is pretty green and with plenty of fresh water, shapes like a soccer. Latok Group can also be reach from Panmah Glacier, Nobande Sobande Glacier.

The shortest route to Latok peaks can be reach from Biafo Glacier. The Ho Bluk, on the right bank of the Biafo Glacier is said to be the highest grazing land. The environment here is pleasant. This is also the grazing ground for Brown Baer and Himalayan Ibex.

Lukpilla Brakk - The Ogre Thumb

Lukpilla Brakk
5500 metres

Lukpilla Brakk stand against the Biantha Brakk 7285m look like guarding the mother peak. A 4 days walk from Askole Village will bring you to a grean meadow about 4200m base camp for Lukpilla Brakk as well as for Biantha Brakk, Latok group of peaks.
It was climbed by Gary Thompson, Rob Milne, Galen Rowell. Jack Tackle did the first ascent of this rock spire in 1984 in one move in free climbing. A 32 pitch, 4,400 foot big-wall that is certainly offer best technical climb you ever have. It still has many routes to challenge your skill.

Red Tape

Lotok Peaks are in open zone, but a Peak permit is require to climb peaks above 6500m. LO or guide will accompany the expedition.

Camping

Camping is allowed and fee is charged in Askole village. Further up going from Biafo side there is no camping fee.

External Links

www.russianclimb.com/odintsov.html
www.thenorthface.com/na/expeditions/expeditions-2006-latok1.html
www.huberbuam.de

Images

View Latok Peak Image Gallery - 7 Images