Portillón Superior, Normal

Approach

The approach is by car to Plan de la Besurta (1.900 m) from 8 pm to 8 am, or by bus from 8 am to 8 pm. The cars in bus hours can be parked in Hospital de Benasque (1.758 m) parking. Once where the climb starts, Plan de la Besurta, go to the end of the parking where a placard is placed. Then follow the path to the right (S) descending 5 m. Then it becomes steep and well marked going SEwards. Near Refugio de la Renclusa (2.140 m), the hut where we can spend the night, a monolith is placed as a memorial of Sayó-Abadías, Mn. Jaume Oliveras and Juli Soler i Santaló. It's well seen from the start of the climb. Cross 2 little meadows and go to the 3rd zig zaging. Cross the slope from NE to SE without approaching or traversing Barranco (gorge) de la Renclusa and reach Refugio de la Renclusa. 40'

Route Description

From the hut go W first, passing the hillock where the radio aerial is placed, to the right. After 100 m from La Renclusa ascend (SE and S) a steep slope. The path is in a wide stony valley to the W of Pico de la Renclusa (2.700 m) . We have to leave always the refuge behind our backs, it always can be seen up to point 2.500 m. The trail is non well marked and is only signposted with some little cairns. Leave to the left (E)the gap between Pico de la Renclusa and Pico del Portillón Inferior (2.761 m), Falso Portillón (2.651 m). Reach the gap between Pico del Portillón Inferior and Pico del Portillón Superior (2.908 m), Portillón Inferior (2.745 m). 2 h 10'

From this col its seen a little lake or some plonds (it depends on the year season) to the SW. The gap could be traversed as a variant of this route in order to reach Glaciar del Aneto. But our route surround Pico del Portillón Superior its NW side to Portillón Superior (2.870 m). This is an amazing and narrow gap in Cresta de los Portillones, the sights are wonderful over Macizo de la Maladeta and Aneto. 2 h 40'

Descend 70 m to Glaciar del Aneto and start to cross this beautiful glacier (the largest in Spain). The crossing must be done in diagonal from NW to Collado de Coronas (SE) if you are early in the season up to mid summer. -In late summer, when the crevasses are open, climb along the glacier W side as if you want S to Collado Maldito. This is an chaotic and arduous rocky place until reaching the snow. On point 3.050 m, aproximately 100 m behind Collado Maldito (3.191 m) turn Ewards to Collado de Coronas (3.198 m). 4 h 25'

This nice and wide col between Glaciar del Aneto and Glaciar de Coronas is placed between Aneto (3.404 m) and Pico de Coronas (3.293 m). Sometimes a pool is formed in its N side. From the Collado de Coronas go left (NE) and climb a steep snowed slope (with crevasses sometimes in late summer) turning gradually to the right (SE) towards the secondary summit called Collado de Aneto or Punta Oliveras (3.298 m).

Next is the final comb, named Puente (bridge) de Mahoma because Franqueville in 1845 described this ridge as the unique way to reach the summit of Aneto. According to Koran the men in order to go to heaven, once finished the judgement, traverse a bridge narrower than a hair and sharper than the blade of a scimitar. Puente de Mahoma is shorter than 30 m and can be well traversed by its SW side climbing a little. It's not difficult but dangerous because of the cliffs on both sides. Finally ascend the rocky slope to the top of Aneto (3.404 m). 5 h 25'

Descend by the same route. 4 h 45'

Essential Gear

Crampons. Ice axe, rope, warm clothes, map, compass and altimeter are recommended principally out of summer.

Images

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