Lizard Head

The SW Chimney follows the obvious crack/chimney system on the right side of the south face. This route does NOT follow Ellingwood's original 1920 ascent line.

 

Pitch 1: Climb cracks up a prominent left-facing corner (5.7+) on the right side of the face to a belay at rappel anchors in a prominent pitch. It's best to climb cracks right of the main crack system, before trending up left to the main crack. Pass a narrow ledge about 80 feet up for a possible belay (= intermediate station). This small ledge has pitons for an anchor. 

 

From the ledge, most people move out to the left face and climb delicately up the steep face past a couple of fixed pitons to an airy notch. The whole pitch is 155 feet, and you can split it into two pitches. 

 

Pitch 2: Climb a short easy headwall - class 4 - and then scramble up left across a sloping terrace - class 3 - covered with loose rock to the base of the upper headwall. This pitch is very easy, but very loose. 

 

Pitch 3: Climb 20 feet up a chimney, clip a piton up left, then climb to a small roof/overhang (5.8) protected by a #4 camalot in the crack right of the roof = crux. A couple of strenuous moves are needed to get over the overhang before the terrain eases up. Continue up the easy chimney above or face climb up left up a steep groove (5.5). Look for belay and rappel anchors. This pitch has mostly solid rock.  Scramble from here to the summit. This section is not difficult, but it is loose - pay attention to your footing. 

 

Paulinds recounts a variation of the last pitch (thanks, Paul!):

"
A variation to the third lead

Before resorting to an offered shoulder stand, I went around the corner to the right to explore the south face. There I was able to continue to the summit by way of a ramp, traversing the face to the left and then continuing up another to the right. It seemed straightforward at maybe 5.6-7 but poorly protected with the gear we had.

Thanks to the generosity of a great friend and climber, he let me lead the whole thing...my first. I wish I could still share the memory of that day with him."

 

Descent requires at least as much caution as the ascent. Make two double rope rappels down the route. Be careful when pulling the ropes, both to avoid getting your ropes stuck and to avoid getting hit by loose rocks.  If you have 70 meter rope, that is sufficient for descent and probably a better option (less chance of getting ropes stuck), but you will have to down climb the class 3 section. 

 

National Geographic's 'Trails Illustrated Map' to Telluride, Silverton, Ouray, & Lake City is an excellent topographic map to the area.

Red Tape

Lizard Head lies fittingly in the 41,193-acre Lizard Head Wilderness, set aside by Congress in 1980 within the San Juan & Uncompahgre National Forests. In addition to Lizard Head, fourteeners Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak, and El Diente, as well as numerous other 12,000'+ peaks lie within the wilderness area.The following regulations apply to all Wildernesses within the Grand Mesa, Uncompahgre, & Gunnison National Forests (this more or less from the Grand Mesa, Uncompahgre, & Gunnison National Forests website):Motorized equipment and equipment used for mechanical transport is prohibited. This includes the use of motor vehicles, motorboats, motorized equipment, bicycles, hang gliders, wagons, carts, portage wheels, and the landing of aircraft including helicopters. Wheelchairs suitable for indoor use are exempt. Be aware, there is a "Region 2 Wilderness Use Restriction, Special Order" ("Possessing or using a wagon, cart, wheelbarrow, bicycle, or other vehicle (Including “game carts”)") in effect as well, ha ha. Weed Free Feed is required on all national forest lands in the Rocky Mountain Region.A summary of the most applicable rules pertaining specifically to climbers in Lizard Head Wilderness is as follows:• A maximum of 15 people, or a combination of 25 people/livestock, is permitted at one time.• Fires are not permitted within 100 ft. of any lake, stream, or National Forest System trail; above treeline; or within Navajo Basin• Don't shortcut a switchback in a trail. Full regulations specific to Lizard Head Wilderness can be found here.

When To Climb

July to early September is the main season for climbing Lizard Head Peak. The snow is gone. That being said, take my advice and get a late start. The route is in the shade in the morning and is bitter cold. Some have got frostbite in the summer. You don't want to get too late of a start though. Make sure your off the summit by 11 or 12 at the latest as this would be one nasty place to be with lightning.Winter on Lizard Head Peak is more of a challenge if doing it in the summer is not hard enough. It involves a large dose of suffering. Climbing in double boots and gloves is a must making the climb feel a bit harder than 5.8. No ice screws needed as there was no ice just snow-covered rock. The summit has been one of my favorite experiences in the winter in CO. That being said, I only know of one or maybe two parties climbing it in the winter in recorded history. It's a bit more serious but well worth the effort!

Camping

Telluride area offers several campgrounds: 

• Alta Lakes Campground: dispersed primitive camping in an alpine setting, no reservations: first-come-first-serve basis, no fee
• Matterhorn Campground: developed campground close to Colorado Highway 145 near Telluride, 28 sites, fee, can make reservations.
• Priest Lake camping area: no designated camping sites, dispersed camping, no services, no fee, vault toilet.
• Sunshine Campground: no reservation needed (first-come-first-serve basis), fee, 15 sites, composting toilets 
• Woods Lake Campground: situated in a dense aspen forest, 41 sites, fee, no reservations (first come - first serve basis).