Peshastin Pinnacles

Overview

The Peshastin Pinnacles are a group of sandstone spires up to 200 feet high between the cities of Wenatchee and Leavenworth in central Washington. The area is a popular cragging destination in early spring and late fall, before it closes for the winter. The area is now part of a 34 acre State Park, and is protected from development.

Peshastin is composed of a Swauk type sandstone, making the rock unique to the state. To the south tower the basalt columns of Vantage, while nearby Leavenworth (the most popular rock climbing destination in the state) has large formations of granite. The sandstone of Peshastin is known for one thing, superb friction slab climbing.

History

The Pinnacles were first discovered by climbers looking to bag their summits in the 1940s. Rockclimbing started in earnest in the mid sixties. Some of the formations have cracks, and some offer little to no natural protection.

In 1986 the area was closed due to liability issues associated with the climbing. The land was privately owned back then. Fortunately, The Trust For Public Land purchased the property, developed the site, then sold it to the Washington State Parks. It reopened to climbing in 1991.

In 1978 the famous Trigger Finger formation fell over, and the dry summer of 2004 resulted in a large fire enveloping the Pinnacles and closing them for the year.

Grand Central Tower

Grand Central Tower is the largest formation at Peshastin, and is home to the very popular Lightning Crack and West Face routes. There are also a variety of slab routes near the first pitch of the West Face that are very popular topropes including White Lightning and the West Face Direct. The formation is on a hillside making the southeast face twice as tall as the northwest.

The formation is reached by taking the left trail just past the gate and following it up the hill to the base of the southeast face.

Martian Tower

Martian Tower, along with the adjoining Martian Slab, offers the largest collection of friction slab routes at Peshastin. The best known route here is the Martian Diagonal Direct, a 2 pitch line utilizing a combination and traditional protection and bolts. The original Martial Diagonal route is a poor choice offering subpar rock, and poor protection. In recent years, several new 5.11 bolted slab routes have appeared on the uphill side of the Martian Slab offering some challenging climbing to more experienced climbers.

The approach is easy, it is the second formation out of the parking lot on the right side of the trail.

Orchard Rock

Orchard Rock is the first formation that is encountered after passing through the gate at Peshastin. The rock is on the right side of the main trail and features a rounded summit area. The formation has two popular routes, the Tunnel and A Crack. The Tunnel route features a bizzarre hole in the rock that must be crawled through to access the other side.

Dinosaur Tower

The summit of Dinosaur Tower is the highest point in the park. This large formation includes several of Peshastin's classic routes including Potholes, Potholes Direct Direct, and Washboard. The formation is the third on the right after entering the park.

Sunset Slab

A small slab in the northeast corner of the park offering some good beginner slab routes. Climbs use both traditional protection and bolts.

Austrian Slab

This wide slab face in encountered first on the west trail to Grand Central Tower. The climbs are generally popular but runout. The face offers a good selection of moderate routes in the 5.8 to 5.10B range.

Sickle Slab

The Sickle Slab is a small section on the south end of the Austrian Slab, and is home to the classic climb, Windward Direct.

Getting There

The crag is located 14 miles northwest of Wenatchee and 2 miles southeast of Leavenworth, just off Highway 2. Turn east onto North Dryden Road, then follow signs to the parking area.

Red Tape

A $5 vehicle parking permit is required. The permit covers one days usage only. Camping is illegal here, and there is no water supply. Hours are 6:30 AM to dusk.

When To Climb

March 18th - November 29th. March, April, May, October, and November are the best months. The area gets extremely hot during the summer, and is not recommended.

Camping

No camping is allowed. Camp in nearby Leavenworth instead at popular places such as 8 Mile Campground.

Mountain Conditions

The Information Center is available to assist with questions regarding specific parks, overnight accommodations, recreation programs and seasonal park closures.

Phone: (360) 902-8844
E-mail: infocent@parks.wa.gov

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