American Legion Peak

Overview

American Legion Peak is a commonly overlooked peak sitting directly above and west of the ever popular Titcomb Basin. It's one of the 35 Wyoming 13ers, and sits right at the heart of the core wind rivers, of which 10 of them encircle Titcomb Basin (see the list here). With a base camp in upper Titcomb Basin, you could spend days climbing and scrambling 13ers, or working through technical routes on nearby Mount Helen, Sacajawea, Spearhead or Woodrow Wilson, of which Helen offering the best technical objectives with rock climbing routes as high as 5.11 which are briefly described on that mountain page.

Getting There

Use the Elkhart Park Trailhead accessed from Pinedale on the west side of the range and hike the Pole Creek Trail to Island Lake, passing by Photographers Point and Seneca Lake along the way. Just after passing over a small divide at 10,660 feet Island Lake will come into view. Descend to it and continue to the junction with the Titcomb and Indian Basin trails. Take the Titcomb Basin Trail heading north/leftward and hike past Lower and Upper Titcomb Lakes as the trail follows along their east shores. Base camp can be set up about 0.5 mile past the upper lake where many rock shelters have been built by Gannett Peak climbers and other backpackers.

Route - South Ridge Class 3

From upper Titcomb Basin at the typical camping spot 0.5 mile past the upper lake at 10800 feet elevation, the first obstacle is crossing the river draining down into the lakes. I managed to find some boulders to hop across by walking further north, but if it's before August most people will want to wade across. In earlier season before mid July snow bridges over the creek will likely be easy to find. Once across, continue west traversing just below a large buldefield, and ascend to the crest of the small south ridge coming off Point 12205, reaching it at a small gentle notch at 11,330 feet.

Once you reach this ridge, a gorgeous view of Summer Ice Lake greets you below. This lake remains frozen well into July each year. Make a gentle descending traverse to the NW into the upper basin above Summer Ice Lake, and then ascend snow slopes to the 12,300 foot saddle between American Legion and Henderson Peaks. The snow reaches 40 degrees in seepness on the upper part of this slope so crampons are advisable. Spikes likely won't be enough unless it's real soft. From this saddle continue up the south ridge, ascending class 2 talus, weaving through to avoid any loose areas. You will reach the top of the talus cone right at 13,000 feet, where the class 3 scrambling begins. The final scramble requires you to cross over two small, but narrow ribs, descending about 30 feet or so after each one. If you can't find a class 3 downclimb on the north side of each rib, walk left or right a few feet and it'll show up. Between the 1st and 2nd rib crossing, stay on the west side of the crest traversing ledges. Once you cross the second rib, the final gully scramble to the summit will present itself. Descend about 30 feet and traverse into it and climb this loose final gully to the top. The views of the Titcomb Basin 13ers is spectacular. The summit register is in a world war 2 ammo box with an American Legion seal on it...it's pretty cool. Few people have signed it overall.

Red Tape/Camping

No red tape. Great Camping can be had 0.5 mile above upper Titcomb Lake, or near the junction of the Indian/Titcomb Basin Trails.

When to Climb

Best time for summer conditions will be July - Early September. Ski touring would be advisable before June. The initial hike towards Seneca Lakes dries out a little earlier, but tons of snow typically persists in Titcomb Basin past July 4th, but will normally dry out reasonably well shortly after mid July.

Map

This map shows the route up American Legion Peak via its south ridge from a typical camp in Titcomb Basin. Also visible is the classic north ridge of Henderson Peak

External Links

My Trip Report of American Legion Peak, and all the other 13ers in the Wind Rivers