Anrhemer

Overview

Anrhemer is the northernmost peak on a high altitude spine that extends more than 15 km northeast from Toubkal. The north face boasts frozen waterfalls and a maze of snow filled couloirs in winter. There are rock climbs on the east face and north east arete for those committed enough to get to there. The standard route follows a spur from Tizi Tacheddirt before gaining the ridge proper slightly above Tizi-nTigourzatine. Hamish Brown wrote that this ridge was "a fine high-level traverse, reminiscent of Aonach Eagach, except for its 12,000 ft. altitude and the blaze of blue beyond." (Alpine Journal 1966 45). 

Getting There

From Marrakech you can get a grand taxi up to Imlil relatively easily. From Imlil you can wait many hours for a seat in one of the Mercedes 207 vans, or pay to rent the whole 207 which will take you to Tacheddirt from Imlil via Tizi n'Tamatert. This is the most reliable access in winter. If you have your own wheels head east from Asni into the Tacheddirt valley for a more remote but beautiful drive. Park at one of the gites or along the road (at your own risk) where the stream runs down from Tizi Tacheddirt.

Route

The standard route takes the switchbacks from Douar Tacheddirt up to Tizi Tacheddirt. From the tizi follow a southleading spur to Tizi-nTigourzatine before gaining the ridge proper ascending eastward (climbers left). The western summit is the lower of the two summits and clearly marked by a cairn. Descend to a notch and tackle the ridge directly for some fun 5th class moves or avoid these difficulties to the north before gaining the ridge again to the true east summit. Reverse your route to descend. 

Red Tape

None.

When to Climb

January through April usually make for good mountaineering outings while early summer and late fall make for decent scrambles in more temperate conditions.

Camping

An airy and exposed camp can be made on Tizi Tacheddirt at 3,172 msl. You can also sleep at Refuge Tacheddirt or one of the many gites in the Tacheddirt valley at 2,300 msl.

External Links

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