Dean Mountain

Overview

Dean Mountain is a rarely visited off trail mountain. Accessing the mountain requires route finding and glacier travel and the summit has a short 4th class scramble. From the summit (if you climb on a clear day) you can easily see onto the Juneau Icefield and to the Fairweather Range. Depending on the time of year, bear activity can be a concern on the approach. If you're looking for something different, zero people, and a LONG day climb, this mountain is for you.  

Getting There

To access the route to Dean Mountain from downtown Juneau, Drive out Glacier Hwy almost to Echo Cove boat launch. There is a turnout just to the right with a faded yellow gate at 58.655098, -134.900880 that you will start from. 

Route

The Dean Mountain Standard Route starts by walking up the road past the yellow gate. From here continue down the road until you see it cross a creek. Its all off trail from here, head uphill off the road and follow the prominent ridge to the North-East. Eventually treeline is broken and the route steepens into a scramble about 3000' and continues to the top of the ridge. Turn to the East into the basin with twin lakes and skirt the right side of the glacier. Once on the glacier, generally follow it to the summit. Approach was done from climbers right with some 4th class rock encountered.   

See the route page for more details and for the map and Garmin .gpx files.

Red Tape

There is no red tape here, so please use LNT principles.

When to Climb

June is probably the best time to climb since it’s the sunniest summer month, though there tends to be more snow around. The snow will cover the crevasses on the glacier before the summit. Late summer when the most rock and crevasses are exposed would be good as well, but the approach will be very bushy. Early Spring ascents would be reasonable as well, though there will be avalanche danger on the highest slopes. 

Camping

Backcountry Camping

Permits are not needed to camp in the Tongass National Forest. Amazing camping spots can be found in the basin in the summer months.

External Links

Tongass National Forest